H&M-backed study unravels fashion industry's recycling claims

The in-depth report on circularity in the textile industry reveals some seriously depressing numbers. Fossil-based synthetic fibres make up a whopping 70 percent of raw materials used. Meanwhile of the 3.25 billion tons of materials used annually, a tiny 0.3 percent comes from recycled sources.

The study, called the Circularity Gap Report Textiles, has been put together by Circle Economy, a cooperative powered by over 60 experts from various countries.

According to the organisation's CEO Hilde van Duijn, the report is groundbreaking since it is the first in-depth analysis measuring circularity throughout the textile-making production process.

"It highlights the urgent need for solutions that transform the entire textile value chain towards a circular model. Only through concrete and scalable measures can the industry meaningfully contribute to a sustainable future," she says in a statement.

Four paths to change

The report makes four key recommendations to tackle this: slash production volumes, expand environmental priorities beyond just carbon reduction, ensure a socially just transition, and coordinate efforts across science, tech, policy, and finance.

Perhaps surprisingly, given its connection to fast fashion brands, the H&M Foundation helped pay for the research. The foundation is funded by the Persson family, founders and majority owners of the H&M Group, which owns companies including Arket, Cos and & Other Stories, as well as H&M stores.

"We backed this report to give the textile industry concrete insights. The report highlights the most effective circular interventions. While it's not a complete solution, circularity is a powerful tool to drive meaningful change," argues Christiane Dolva, head of innovation and research at the H&M Foundation.

"Not Sustainable"

Dolva says the report will guide H&M Foundation's future work in supporting the industry's transformation.

The foundation operates independently from the H&M Group, which is facing major challenges in both growing its business and transitioning to a more sustainable production chain.

When the group's relatively new CEO Daniel Ervér was interviewed by Swedish newspaper Di Weekend in August, he argued that political regulations were also needed to help fashion companies adopt a more circular business model.

"The way the industry operates today is not sustainable, and if it continues as it is, it won't align with the Paris climate agreement," Ervér told the Swedish weekly. "Leading players and politicians need to take responsibility, because unfortunately, customers aren't changing their behavior. But you can't put all the responsibility on them either – we need regulations."